Lechon de Cebu

Lechon is a popular dish from the Philippines, specifically associated with Cebu, an island province known for its culinary traditions. It refers to roasted whole pig, which is a staple in Filipino celebrations and gatherings. The pig is marinated with a mixture of spices, including garlic, herbs, and sometimes local citrus fruits like calamansi, before being cooked over an open flame or in a traditional oven. What sets Lechon de Cebu apart from other types of lechon is its unique flavour profile, achieved through a specific blend of seasonings and the way it's prepared. The skin is typically very crispy, while the meat remains tender and flavourful. Lechon de Cebu is typically served with a side of liver sauce or vinegar for dipping, enhancing its flavour and providing a tangy contrast to the richness of the meat. Lechon de Cebu has gained a reputation not only within the Philippines but also internationally, attracting food enthusiasts who seek out this iconic dish. Its unique preparation and flavours make it a cherished culinary tradition.

Core Memories

The aroma of lechon brings back cherished memories of my childhood. Growing up, I had the privilege of experiencing two contrasting worlds: the comfortable life provided by my father and the vibrant, community-driven life I shared with Lola Pati on Tres de Abril Street in Cebu City. From an early age, I was captivated by the resilience and ingenuity of the people in Tres de Abril. Their resourcefulness and unique skills left an indelible impression on me.

I can still vividly picture sitting by the window in Lola Pati's house, watching life unfold on the bustling street below as I waited for my father to pick me up. One vivid memory is the blaring sound of music from a massive speaker at Nang Baresta's house, tuned to DYLA—a local radio station. I remember the name "Lady Artura," a lively host whose voice added charm to the airwaves. Nang Baresta, always busy stirring pots at her small carenderia, served hearty meals to passersby. My favourite dish of hers was sautéed shrimp paste with tomatoes and bilimbi (kamias or Eba in Cebuano).

Next to her eatery was where Noy Serging, the farrier who replaced horseshoes for the horse-drawn carriages that were still common in those days. Nearby stood the lechonan, where the iconic Cebu lechon was prepared. I loved watching the process—how they cleaned the freshly butchered pig, suspended it on a bamboo pole, and poured hot water inside before stuffing it with a medley of herbs and spices. Once stitched up and ready, the pig was roasted whole, filling the street with the mouthwatering aroma of lechon. Even now, I can almost smell that unforgettable fragrance.

One particular afternoon, curiosity got the better of me, and I watched the man grilling lechon. He enthusiastically shared the process, but I was too mesmerized by the enticing smell to absorb the details. Later, I would pester my father to take me to Basak, near Jai Alai, where we could buy a kilo or two of lechon since Noy Serging sold his lechon in bulk.

Life in Tres de Abril was filled with simple joys. I remember the man who patched bicycle tires using rubber from old slippers and a tin can of charcoal. Then there was Nang Gloria, who cooked peanuts in a massive wok on the street, cooling them in a large plastic basin before sealing them into bags with a candle's flame. These small, everyday moments brought the neighbourhood to life, each scene brimming with character and warmth.

As I grew older, lechon became a staple at every celebration—birthdays, school events, and special occasions. My personal journey into making lechon began during a summer culinary class at a vocational school. It was a way to pass the time during school break, but it sparked something deeper. I still remember laughing with my classmate Gina as I stuffed the lechon, telling her, "This is how I saw Noy Serging do it!" That summer was also the first time I used an oven. While my first attempt was tasty, it wasn't quite what I envisioned.

Over the years, as I got married and started a family, I continued refining my recipe. I worked to recreate the distinct aroma and flavour of the lechon I remembered so vividly from my childhood. My first lechon de leche was for my son's second birthday, an event I insisted on catering entirely on my own. I prepared five dishes to feed the guests and felt a deep sense of pride and satisfaction in sharing my creations.

The journey of lechon has become intertwined with my life, a bridge between cherished memories of Tres de Abril and the family traditions I now carry forward.

Years later, while living in the UK, I recreated the lechon experience in my own back garden, digging a hole to grill a small pig. It became one of my fondest memories—gathering the Filipino community on the Isle of Wight for a spontaneous celebration, no special occasion required.

Today, lechon is a centerpiece at my Kusina Restobar. Typically pre-ordered for birthdays, catered buffets, and special events, it's also one of the most popular dishes during the Christmas season. From my first humble attempt to the present day, lechon has become an integral part of my culinary journey—a dish that continues to bring joy to my family and the community I serve.

Here's a simple recipe to prepare Lechon de Cebu

Ingredients

1 whole pig (about 30-40 lbs), cleaned and dressed

2-3 tablespoons salt (to taste)

1 tablespoon black pepper

1 tablespoon of garlic powder

1 tablespoon of onion powder

2-3 cups of coconut water

1-2 cups of soy sauce

1 head of garlic, crushed

4 stalks of lemongrass

4 bay leaves

1cup of vinegar (for marinating)

3 star anise

For the Basting Sauce:

1 cup of soy sauce

1/2 cup of vinegar

1/2 cup of water

1 tablespoon of garlic, minced

Instructions

Preparation:

• Marinate the Pork: - Rub the outside and inside of the pig with salt, black pepper, garlic powder, and onion powder. - Mix soy sauce, coconut water, and vinegar and pour it over the pig, ensuring it is well coated. Marinate for at least 12 hours or overnight in the refrigerator for best results.

• Stuff the Pig: - Inside the cavity, place the crushed garlic, lemongrass, star anise and bay leaves. This will infuse the meat with flavour as it cooks.

• Prepare the Roasting Equipment: - If you have a traditional lechon pit, prepare it by building a fire with charcoal or wood. If using an oven or a rotisserie, preheat it according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Cooking:

Roast the Pig:

• If using a pit or rotisserie, skewer the pig and secure it properly. Roast over medium heat, turning occasionally for even cooking. Cooking time varies but usually takes around 6-8 hours, depending on the size of the pig. If using an oven, place the pig on a large roasting pan and cover it with foil to prevent it from burning. Roast at 350°F (175°C) for the first few hours, then remove the foil to allow the skin to crisp up for the last hour or so.

• Baste Regularly: - Mix the basting sauce ingredients in a bowl.

Baste the pig every 30-45 minutes to keep the meat moist and enhance the flavour.

• Check for Doneness: - The pig is done when the internal temperature reaches at least 160°F (71°C), and the skin is crispy and golden brown.

Serving:

• Rest the Lechon: - Once cooked, let the lechon rest for about 30 minutes before carving. This helps retain its juices.

• Carve and Serve: - Carefully carve the lechon, serving the crispy skin and tender meat. It's often accompanied by a liver sauce or vinegar dipping sauce.